At the
lowest tide a wonderful ocean garden is revealed. For the savvy forager a
delicious cornucopia of vegetables is ready for picking. Some seaweeds exist in
the splash zone (as you go down to the beach) but many do not survive
desiccation (the time that seaweeds aren’t covered by water). Seaweeds adapt to
the climate in which they grow.The seaside forager needs to make friends with
the moon and tides to be in touch with the zone where each species grows.
Spring is the time to discover seaweed. Zone in. It’s free.
In colder
parts, the snowdrops are still peeking through snow banked ditches, and Jack by
the Hedge and ransoms, (Jack’s more pungent partner in garlic crime) have yet
to raise bud. But seaweeds are rejuvenating. The bounty of the ocean floor is
ready for gathering long before the terrestrial wild green.
My recipe is
for that time in March, when the wind is icy, and yet there is a hint of warmth
is the sun when it breaks through. It uses sea spaghetti. Early in the season
this seaweed can be eaten raw from the rocks. It’s delicious. Unlike many
seaweeds this species is available in supermarkets.
Sea
spaghetti is also known as buttonweed due to its distinctive hold fast
(by which it is attached to the rock). It’s popular in France where it is
called spaghetti de la mere and sea haricot may allude to French
interest too. It is also known as thong weed. Pedants may prefer to call
it Himanthalia elongata. The translation of elongata (long) may help you
with its identification.
I’m working
on a revamp of my book, Seaweed in the Kitchen which will include some new recipes. Raw and vegan, sea spaghetti ticks lots of
dietary boxes.
Root and Sea
Vegetable Salad
This is
perfect for early spring. It combines the earthy texture of winter’s celeriac
with new growth sea spaghetti.
Serves 4
400g fresh
young sea spaghetti
450g
celeriac
Large carrot
Juice half a
small lemon
For the
dressing
2tsps finely
grated fresh ginger
2tbsps rice
vinegar
Black pepper
(few twists)
4tbsps
creamy yoghurt
2 tbsps toasted
sesame seeds
3 tbsps
olive oil
Cut the sea
spaghetti into fork-easy lengths. Pop half of the sea spaghetti into a colander
and pour over a kettle of boiling water. It will turn green. Set aside to cool.
Peel the
celeriac and cut it into match sized pieces. No bigger. This is hard work. Use
a food processor if you are time short but the salad won’t be as textured. Put
the celeriac strips in a bowl, add the lemon juice and toss well. (lemon juice
to prevent discolouration).
Cut the
carrot in a similar fashion and add to the prepared celeriac.
Make the
dressing.
Blend the
rice vinegar, black pepper, toasted seeds and yoghurt together. Whisk in the
oil and pour the dressing over the prepared root vegetables.
Toss well,
season to taste and add the sea vegetables. Lightly mix the sea and root
vegetables and leave for ten minutes before serving.
